The Seasons of the Palouse

The Palouse region of Washington state is a veritable feast for the eyes. The silt dunes, which characterize the Palouse Prairie, were formed during the ice ages when the ice dam holding back Lake Missoula repeatedly broke and reformed. The heart of the region is arguably Colfax though the fields extend for many miles in all directions (see map). The region primarily supports the growth of wheat, lentils, Canola, and Garbonzo beans. In fact, the town of Pullman holds a National Lentil Festival each year during harvest. In the Spring and early summer the bright greens and yellows of these crops and others cover the region with a patchwork quilt.

A favorite vantage point of this beauty is from atop Steptoe Butte, an island that juts out 1,000 feet above the silty loess of the Palouse hills. This landmark lies a few miles east of the town of Steptoe. The circuitous drive up its flanks is well worth it as from there one can see the patchwork fields for many miles around.

When one visits the Palouse in the Spring with the sky filled with puffy white clouds, you will never forget the sight. In early June 2007 I was treated to such a sight while traveling a back road. It's at times like these that one must just pause and soak in the bounty before us.

While the green fields of wheat are beautiful, so too are the golden wheat fields of late summer. Visit there the beginning of August and you're likely to see combines (harvesters) in the fields. I've found the people of the region to be extraordinarily open and friendly. On occasion, the farmers have even orchestrated the movements of the combines for me for a better view.

You might think that the beauty ends with the harvest but that need not be the case. Arise early and the stubble from the fields of freshly-harvested wheat show textures and patterns in the soft light that are quite compelling. The patterns of the harvest are unmistakable as they follow the contours of the land.

Winter is the only season that I have not visited the Palouse but I hope to remedy that this year. Many of the back roads are posted as closed between November 15 and March 15 each year (local residents excepted). A note on these back roads: 4-wheel drive is definitely not required. If you drive them with care, your daily transportation should serve your needs - I've even driven these back roads in a Honda Insight, a 2-seat hybrid.

Accommodations:
There is a nice Best Western motel in Colfax. I've stayed there on several occasions and found it satisfactory. Don't expect to find a good selection of restaurants in Colfax. Other than several fast food establishments that tend to close early, the Mexican restaurant in the heart of town is the place to go.

Approximately 16 miles south of Colfax on Hwy 195 is the college town of Pullman. Here you will find quite a number of motels and restaurants. I've only stayed there once and during that short visit did not find anything that I could recommend. If you plan to visit the region during the late Summer or Fall make sure and check the football schedule of Washington State University. If a home game will be played during your stay, the hotels / motels will be solidly booked in advance. Just do a little planning.

Then again, one can always find an out-of-the-way field and camp for the night.