highway, U.S. Route 395, passes through the towns of Lone Pine, Independence, Big Pine, and Bishop on their way to destinations in the north such as Reno and Carson City. It is also heavily traveled in the winter by skiers heading for the ski resort at Mammoth Lakes.
Owens Valley is bounded by the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the west, Owens Lake to the south, the Inyo and White Mountains to the east, and Sherwin Summit (just north of the town of Bishop) to the north (see map).
Its vegetation is sparse as it receives little rain throughout the year - the Sierra Nevada casts it in a rain shadow. These arid conditions were exacerbated by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power when, in 1913, under William Mulholland, the Los Angeles Aqueduct was completed. This diverted water from the Owens River to Los Angeles. Apparantly this first aqueduct was inadequate for Los Angeles growth so, in 1970, a second aqueduct was built. More surface water was diverted and groundwater was pumped to feed the aqueduct. Owens Valley springs and seeps dried and disappeared, and groundwater-dependent vegetation began to die.
Geologically, the valley is a graben, an area that fell as the mountain ranges to either side of it rose. On its western flank, you will see large piles of rocks / boulders which were formed by glaciers during the last ice age.
Prominent groups of these rocks can be found outside Bishop (The Buttermilks). Although the altitude of the graben (valley) is approximately 4,000 feet, gravity studies indicate that the depth of the valley is much greater and is filled with approximately 10,000 feet of sedimentary rock. This sedimentary rock can be seen outside Lone Pine in the area known as the Alabama Hills.
Bishop
Bishop, with a population of 3,606, is the largest town in the Owens Valley. Here you will find a wide variety of services. For breakfast, I recommend Jack's Restaurant & Bakery (not to be confused with Jack-in-the-Box). You might find the mounted trophy fish displayed all over the restaurant's walls of interest. For lunch I'd try Erick Schat's Bakkerÿ, the "Home of the Original Sheepherder Bread", which has been baked continuously since 1907. They serve excellent sandwiches during the lunch hours and don't forget to try their pull-aparts. For dinner, I can recommend Imperial Gourmet Chinese Restaurant or Whiskey Creek, both on Main Street.
Bishop seems to be a very active community with a love of the outdoors throughout the year. If you are there during Memorial Day weekend, you may find your progress slowed by what is billed as the world's largest non-motorized parade, "Mule Days". This event is held annually to celebrate the opening of the summer packing season.
Bishop enjoys its outdoor activities. The entire month of June is devoted to the Bishop Creek Canyon Summer Classic Trout Derby. Don't be fooled by the arid nature of the valley, fishing here is very actively pursued. Mountain biking, cross-country running, mountain climbing, bouldering, Sierra hiking, and photography are also actively pursued. For those who appreciate good photography, a visit to Galen Rowell's Mountain Light Gallery is highly recommended.
The Owens River meanders through the valley and is a magnet for fishermen and tubers. The dirt tracks that follow the river require a 4WD vehicle as there are high centers and some soft and/or wet spots that need to be negotiated. The soft light of pre-dawn light really makes it inviting but beware of the mosquitoes. My mosquito-net hat was covered on this morning.
Pre-dawn soon gives way to the light of day and, naturally, the highest landmarks, the Sierras, get illuminated first. The light, at this low angle, has to penetrate a lot of atmosphere which results in a very red-colored light. Before long, however, as the sun rises, the light will acquire its entire spectrum and take on the white light of the day.
The Buttermilks, which are a renowned location for bouldering, mountain biking, and photography, are just a few miles out of Bishop. Take Hwy 168 west out of Bishop then turn right on Buttermilk Road. This is a 2-lane-wide dirt washboard road, so take it slow. Your 2WD normal mode of transportation will be fine unless you decide to go up some of the hills or take some of the less-traveled side roads. Stay on the main road and you should have no difficulties.You can also get a beautiful overview of this area if you continue west on 168 to Starlite Drive. Although you will see nothing at the turnoff, this road will take you to a small community. Drive straight through it and you will find yourself with a spectacular view of the Buttermilks and an opportunity to connect up with Buttermilk Road.
If you plan your visit carefully, you may even be able to see a moonset over the Sierras at dawn - truly a sight to remember.
As you continue up Hwy 168 still further you will gain altitude very quickly. In the winter, the road will be gated just outside the community of Aspendell but your view of the Sierras is still very worthwhile. In Fall, the Aspens there turn brilliant hues of yellow and orange. If you're able to continue on 168, the road will take you to either Lake Sabrina or North Lake. Both locations are ideal for fishermen and photographers.
Another Bishop-area location that is well-worth seeing is the Laws Railroad Museum. Only 4.5 miles north of Bishop off Hwy 6, this museum keeps the narrow-gauge history of the valley alive.
Manzanar
The Manzanar Relocation Camp lies at the foot of Mt. Williamson just north of Lone Pine, CA. Up to 10,000 people of Japanese descent, many US citizens, were interned here after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the act that caused the United States to enter World War 2.
One of the internees created this monument in the base cemetery during his internment. The inscription reads "Monument for the Pacification of Spirits".
The numerous small bits of glass, rock, and coins left on and around this monument are small tributes left by the visitors. It is hard not to feel that spirit when visiting this location.
Finally, a plaque at the entrance to the camp reads ...
In the early part of World War II, 110,000 persons of Japanese ancestry were interned in relocation centers by executive order no. 9066, issued on February 19, 1942.
Manzanar, the first of ten such concentration camps, was bounded by barbed wire and guard towers confining 10,000 persons, the majority being American citizens.
May the injustices and humiliation suffered here as a result of hysteria, racism and economic exploitation never emerge again.
Little of the original camp remains today though the spirit lives on. Foundations are identified for the buildings that once stood there, a guard tower has been reconstructed, and an original building has been returned to the base. The presentation at the visitor's center is very worthwhile and quite stirring. If you are lucky, you may even be able to talk to one of the internees, as I did, who returns each year and volunteers his services. Though I'm certain that his parents had a different opinion, from his perspective as a young child, his time spent at Manzanar was pleasant - "There were always children to play with and my parents were always available".
A particularly stark, yet beautiful area, may be found behind the internment center. There large boulder fields lay at the feet of Mt. Williamson, the second-highest peak in the Sierras. It is also the site of one of Ansel Adam's most famous shots, "Mt. Williamson, the Sierra Nevada, from Manzanar, California 1945". A passing storm somehow seems to suit it.
There are no facilities at Manzanar.
Lone Pine
Ah, the pranksters. Lone Pine lies at the south end of the Owens Valley. While a small town, population 1,655, it is indeed full of "Charm".
Lone Pine has a full range of services. I can certainly recommend the Dow Villa Motel in town or, within a mile or two to the south, a Comfort Inn and a Best Western. While there are some fast-food restaurants, the restaurant that I keep coming back to for good basic food is the Mt. Whitney Restaurant. There you can try to guess the identities of scores of movie stars whose pictures are hanging on the walls. For a bit more money, but superb food, try Seasons just across the street from the Mt. Whitney.
The big event every year is the Film Festival that is held in October over Columbus Day weekend. If you hurry, you can attend this year's festival.
When I think of Lone Pine, however, I think of it as the gateway to Mt. Whitney and the Alabama Hills. To others, it is the shooting location for countless movies and commercials. Both perceptions are accurate.
Mt. Whitney, at 14,495 feet, is the highest peak in the Lower 48 states and the most frequently-climbed peak in the Sierra Nevadas. The most popular route, the Whitney Portal, is a 10.7-mile trail which begins at the end of the end of the Whitney Portal Road, 13 miles west of Lone Pine. While most take 2 days for this round-trip hike, some hearty souls do it in one. Since the summer of 1996, everyone entering the Whitney Zone between May 22 and October 15 must obtain a permit. Permits for day users and backpackers entering from the east are issued only at the InterAgency Visitor Center, 1 mile south of Lone Pine. Even if you don't intend to hike the backcountry, a visit to the Visitor Center is worthwhile.
Though you may never have visited the Alabama Hills before, you may get almost a deja vu feeling on your first visit. That is because they have been featured in 100's of movies and 1000's of commercials filmed there. For instance, the 1939 movie Gunga Din starring Cary Grant, Victor McLaglen, Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., Joan Fontaine, Eduardo Ciannelli, and, in the title role, Sam Jaffe, was made entirely in these hills. For those who now have a puzzled look on their faces, a more recent example is the 2007 film, Iron Man. Here is an excellent tour guide for some of the better-known movies.The "Hills" are made up of rough granite stones of all shapes that have been weather-worn over the millennia. They are very rough and can easily tear up your hands and knees. If you intend to do a bit of climbing during your explorations, I would suggest wearing a pair of leather gloves and some knee pads.
Points of Interest (see map):
Perhaps the best-known formation is one that was made famous by the photographer Galen Rowell, Mobius Arch. It is particularly attractive, well not when I'm posing perhaps, during sunrise when first light on Mt. Whitney or Lone Pine Peak may be seen through the arch. Drive to the pullout shown at point B on the map then take a short path to the arch. The area to view the arch is quite small and it is very popular so if there are a number of other cars parked there, do not be surprised if you are not able to gain a viewpoint that you would like. If so, come back on another occasion.
An incredible overview of the Hills and the Sierras may be seen from this next location. At point C on the map, which is at the top of a steep hill, there is a small dirt road to the south. A 2WD vehicle can take this for a short distance to a camping area but beyond that the slickrock will require either a hike or a 4WD vehicle. Perhaps a 1/2 mile long, this track will take you to what seems to be the top of the world, a place that I have camped on numerous occasions.
If you're really lucky, you may have the opportunity to see a "Sierra Wave" light up with dawn's colors.
Another arch, which I have named Knight's Arch for its resemblance to that chess piece, may be found further east. A dirt road, which is initially accessible by 2WD, exits Movie Road at point D on the map. Within a couple of hundred yards there is a small pulloff and this arch may be seen to the west. A short hike through the sage makes for a very easy approach.
In fact, while standing at Knight's Arch look to the west. With a little care you can spot another arch, which I've dubbed Crab Arch, that is within easy walking distance.
Owens Valley is far more than the arid stretch of road that one must pass when heading for Mammoth Lakes. It is an area of true beauty if one only takes the time to pause and soak it in.
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