The White Mountains

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

California's White Mountains border the northern reaches of Owens Valley to the east. They are often overlooked because of the proximity of the Sierras but doing so would be a mistake. Aside from their very high vantage point, they are the home to the oldest living things on earth, the Great Basin Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva) found in the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest.

Map for reference.

Though very high in the White Mountains (10,000 to 12,000 feet), one may drive to several groves of these amazing ancients with a 2WD car. To get there, head south from Bishop on 395 (map point A), then east from Big Pine on 168 (map point B) then turn at the Bristle Pine Forest entrance (map point C). You will then steadily gain altitude and will be rewarded for your efforts with some fine views of the Sierras across the valley below.



When you reach Schulman Grove, stop and enjoy a short hike through the grove. Here, although intentionally not identified, is "Methuselah", a living tree that is more than 4,750 years old.

Beyond Schulman Grove the road is gravel so you must take it slow. All along this road, however, you will find specimens of this magnificent tree. Don't hesitate to use some of the pulloffs to stop and examine them up-close.

If you remain on this road long enough, you will come to another grove, Patriarch Grove. Here there is ample parking and an bathroom. Follow the circular trail up the hill and enjoy your walk through time.



There is little vegetation at this altitude. Above you are talus slopes of beautiful white rock with a few Bristlecones clinging to its surface.



Continuing on past the Patriarch Grove will yield opportunities for cross-country hikes but few trees along the road. In fact, it is quite barren. The road finally is gated at 11,680', 2 miles before reaching Barcroft Station, a University of California-run research station. The road's end, however, serves some as a trailhead for a strenuous 7-mile hike / bike to White Mountain Peak. At 14,246', it is the 3rd-highest peak in California and the easiest to reach.

While you are in the Whites, examine the Bristlecones' bark and wood structure - you may find it fascinating.





If you can rise early enough, view these ancients by the light of dawn, perhaps overlooking the Sierras and Bishop far below.





4WD Enthusiasts

Early on I mentioned that the most common way to the Bristlecones was through Big Pine. There is, however, a shorter road but it requires low 4WD and a high clearance. This road starts just north of Bishop at the Laws Museum (point E on the map), and takes you up the length of Silver Canyon. While in the canyon, you must ford a small stream 8 times. Once you reach the end of the canyon, though, the fun really begins. Here you will climb a series of tight switchbacks on a roadbed of uneven sharp rocks. Take your time and use your low 4WD setting for the majority of this climb. Also keep in mind that, however unlikely, there is a possibility of encountering another vehicle coming in the other direction. The scenery of the canyon leading to Owens Valley with the Sierras beyond is spectacular and is most easily enjoyed on the way back down. A breathtaking 6,000 foot climb into the Whites - what could be better?

I've taken this route a couple of times and wouldn't hesitate doing it again. But know that an acquaintance of mine took his jeep up this road and lost his clutch (a gas bubble in a hydraulic line) and got a flat tire, so take it very easy and try to avoid the very sharp rocks in your path.

There are several 4WD roads in the Whites that lead you to picturesque spots. One such road, Crooked Creek Rd, branches off the main road about 2 miles from Patriarch Grove. About 1 mile down this road is the Crooked Creek Research Station. No need to stop here unless you are a guest. Continue down the road and you will encounter a split in the road: The right fork takes you to Crooked Creek while the left fork to Cottonwood Canyon, both at approximately 9,000 feet. The latter road is much rougher than the former and requires some 4WD skills.

At the bottom of Crooked Creek Rd a very rocky area. A small side road there will take you to "Cow Camp" where you will find a water source, corral, and a couple of shacks, all owned by the U.S. Forest Service and used by local ranchers for their livestock.



The rock formations in Cottonwood Canyon reminded me of the Alabama Hills in many ways. The real added bonus, however, is that here you will find stands of Aspens along a beautiful creek. Visit this area in late September and you will be treated to Fall colors. For those wishing to stay here, a number of campsites may be found throughout this area along the creek.

Precautions

The Bristlecones are at very high altitudes and the oxygen levels are far less than at sea level. You may quickly find that levels of activity that you are accustomed to at lower elevations will now quickly take your breath away. Until you are acclimated, take it easy.

Altitude sickness is also a problem with some and can ruin a trip. To try to stave this off, spend a day or two at a lower altitude and always keep very well-hydrated. If symptoms should appear, don't disregard them. Descend to a lower altitude until symptoms disappear.

To gain a full appreciation of this forest, try to stay several days. There is one campground about halfway between the turnoff from Hwy 168 and Schulman Grove. My guess is that it is at about 8,500'. When last I looked, the Forest Service did not allow camping elsewhere in the forest. Of course, you could always stay in Bishop each night and have a long drive each morning. Other than the one campground, there are no services in the White Mountains.

Champion Spark Plug Mine

Another interesting destination in the White Mountains, or so I've been told, is the Jeffrey Mine, aka Champion Spark Plug Mine. It was here that a natural deposit of Sillimanite, a needed component in the manufacture of spark plug insulators, was found. The mine remained in production from 1919 until 1945. By that time, a process to synthesize Sillimanite was developed, making the mine obsolete. A far more extensive writeup may be found here.

The turnoff to the mine is 20 miles north of Bishop on Hwy 6. There you will turn right on White Mountain Ranch Rd (point F on the Map). At that point, follow the directions outlined in the reference. Your mode of transportation will then dictate which of 2 trailheads that you can use. Whichever trailhead that you use will still require a steep ascent to Black Eagle Camp, the heart of the mining operations (the mine is still approximately 1,500' higher). The original cabins have been maintained and may be used for your overnight stays.