The White Mountains

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

California's White Mountains border the northern reaches of Owens Valley to the east. They are often overlooked because of the proximity of the Sierras but doing so would be a mistake. Aside from their very high vantage point, they are the home to the oldest living things on earth, the Great Basin Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva) found in the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest.

Map for reference.

Though very high in the White Mountains (10,000 to 12,000 feet), one may drive to several groves of these amazing ancients with a 2WD car. To get there, head south from Bishop on 395 (map point A), then east from Big Pine on 168 (map point B) then turn at the Bristle Pine Forest entrance (map point C). You will then steadily gain altitude and will be rewarded for your efforts with some fine views of the Sierras across the valley below.



When you reach Schulman Grove, stop and enjoy a short hike through the grove. Here, although intentionally not identified, is "Methuselah", a living tree that is more than 4,750 years old.

Beyond Schulman Grove the road is gravel so you must take it slow. All along this road, however, you will find specimens of this magnificent tree. Don't hesitate to use some of the pulloffs to stop and examine them up-close.

If you remain on this road long enough, you will come to another grove, Patriarch Grove. Here there is ample parking and an bathroom. Follow the circular trail up the hill and enjoy your walk through time.



There is little vegetation at this altitude. Above you are talus slopes of beautiful white rock with a few Bristlecones clinging to its surface.



Continuing on past the Patriarch Grove will yield opportunities for cross-country hikes but few trees along the road. In fact, it is quite barren. The road finally is gated at 11,680', 2 miles before reaching Barcroft Station, a University of California-run research station. The road's end, however, serves some as a trailhead for a strenuous 7-mile hike / bike to White Mountain Peak. At 14,246', it is the 3rd-highest peak in California and the easiest to reach.

While you are in the Whites, examine the Bristlecones' bark and wood structure - you may find it fascinating.





If you can rise early enough, view these ancients by the light of dawn, perhaps overlooking the Sierras and Bishop far below.





4WD Enthusiasts

Early on I mentioned that the most common way to the Bristlecones was through Big Pine. There is, however, a shorter road but it requires low 4WD and a high clearance. This road starts just north of Bishop at the Laws Museum (point E on the map), and takes you up the length of Silver Canyon. While in the canyon, you must ford a small stream 8 times. Once you reach the end of the canyon, though, the fun really begins. Here you will climb a series of tight switchbacks on a roadbed of uneven sharp rocks. Take your time and use your low 4WD setting for the majority of this climb. Also keep in mind that, however unlikely, there is a possibility of encountering another vehicle coming in the other direction. The scenery of the canyon leading to Owens Valley with the Sierras beyond is spectacular and is most easily enjoyed on the way back down. A breathtaking 6,000 foot climb into the Whites - what could be better?

I've taken this route a couple of times and wouldn't hesitate doing it again. But know that an acquaintance of mine took his jeep up this road and lost his clutch (a gas bubble in a hydraulic line) and got a flat tire, so take it very easy and try to avoid the very sharp rocks in your path.

There are several 4WD roads in the Whites that lead you to picturesque spots. One such road, Crooked Creek Rd, branches off the main road about 2 miles from Patriarch Grove. About 1 mile down this road is the Crooked Creek Research Station. No need to stop here unless you are a guest. Continue down the road and you will encounter a split in the road: The right fork takes you to Crooked Creek while the left fork to Cottonwood Canyon, both at approximately 9,000 feet. The latter road is much rougher than the former and requires some 4WD skills.

At the bottom of Crooked Creek Rd a very rocky area. A small side road there will take you to "Cow Camp" where you will find a water source, corral, and a couple of shacks, all owned by the U.S. Forest Service and used by local ranchers for their livestock.



The rock formations in Cottonwood Canyon reminded me of the Alabama Hills in many ways. The real added bonus, however, is that here you will find stands of Aspens along a beautiful creek. Visit this area in late September and you will be treated to Fall colors. For those wishing to stay here, a number of campsites may be found throughout this area along the creek.

Precautions

The Bristlecones are at very high altitudes and the oxygen levels are far less than at sea level. You may quickly find that levels of activity that you are accustomed to at lower elevations will now quickly take your breath away. Until you are acclimated, take it easy.

Altitude sickness is also a problem with some and can ruin a trip. To try to stave this off, spend a day or two at a lower altitude and always keep very well-hydrated. If symptoms should appear, don't disregard them. Descend to a lower altitude until symptoms disappear.

To gain a full appreciation of this forest, try to stay several days. There is one campground about halfway between the turnoff from Hwy 168 and Schulman Grove. My guess is that it is at about 8,500'. When last I looked, the Forest Service did not allow camping elsewhere in the forest. Of course, you could always stay in Bishop each night and have a long drive each morning. Other than the one campground, there are no services in the White Mountains.

Champion Spark Plug Mine

Another interesting destination in the White Mountains, or so I've been told, is the Jeffrey Mine, aka Champion Spark Plug Mine. It was here that a natural deposit of Sillimanite, a needed component in the manufacture of spark plug insulators, was found. The mine remained in production from 1919 until 1945. By that time, a process to synthesize Sillimanite was developed, making the mine obsolete. A far more extensive writeup may be found here.

The turnoff to the mine is 20 miles north of Bishop on Hwy 6. There you will turn right on White Mountain Ranch Rd (point F on the Map). At that point, follow the directions outlined in the reference. Your mode of transportation will then dictate which of 2 trailheads that you can use. Whichever trailhead that you use will still require a steep ascent to Black Eagle Camp, the heart of the mining operations (the mine is still approximately 1,500' higher). The original cabins have been maintained and may be used for your overnight stays.

Owens Valley

California's Owens Valley affords unparalleled views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains throughout its approximately 75-mile length. There are not the miles and miles of tree-covered foothills blocking their view as there are on its western flanks. Here, the valley touches the base of the mountain range with unobstructed views. It's main
highway, U.S. Route 395, passes through the towns of Lone Pine, Independence, Big Pine, and Bishop on their way to destinations in the north such as Reno and Carson City. It is also heavily traveled in the winter by skiers heading for the ski resort at Mammoth Lakes.

Owens Valley is bounded by the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the west, Owens Lake to the south, the Inyo and White Mountains to the east, and Sherwin Summit (just north of the town of Bishop) to the north (see map).

Its vegetation is sparse as it receives little rain throughout the year - the Sierra Nevada casts it in a rain shadow. These arid conditions were exacerbated by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power when, in 1913, under William Mulholland, the Los Angeles Aqueduct was completed. This diverted water from the Owens River to Los Angeles. Apparantly this first aqueduct was inadequate for Los Angeles growth so, in 1970, a second aqueduct was built. More surface water was diverted and groundwater was pumped to feed the aqueduct. Owens Valley springs and seeps dried and disappeared, and groundwater-dependent vegetation began to die.

Geologically, the valley is a graben, an area that fell as the mountain ranges to either side of it rose. On its western flank, you will see large piles of rocks / boulders which were formed by glaciers during the last ice age.

Prominent groups of these rocks can be found outside Bishop (The Buttermilks). Although the altitude of the graben (valley) is approximately 4,000 feet, gravity studies indicate that the depth of the valley is much greater and is filled with approximately 10,000 feet of sedimentary rock. This sedimentary rock can be seen outside Lone Pine in the area known as the Alabama Hills.

Bishop

Bishop, with a population of 3,606, is the largest town in the Owens Valley. Here you will find a wide variety of services. For breakfast, I recommend Jack's Restaurant & Bakery (not to be confused with Jack-in-the-Box). You might find the mounted trophy fish displayed all over the restaurant's walls of interest. For lunch I'd try Erick Schat's Bakkerÿ, the "Home of the Original Sheepherder Bread", which has been baked continuously since 1907. They serve excellent sandwiches during the lunch hours and don't forget to try their pull-aparts. For dinner, I can recommend Imperial Gourmet Chinese Restaurant or Whiskey Creek, both on Main Street.

Bishop seems to be a very active community with a love of the outdoors throughout the year. If you are there during Memorial Day weekend, you may find your progress slowed by what is billed as the world's largest non-motorized parade, "Mule Days". This event is held annually to celebrate the opening of the summer packing season.

Bishop enjoys its outdoor activities. The entire month of June is devoted to the Bishop Creek Canyon Summer Classic Trout Derby. Don't be fooled by the arid nature of the valley, fishing here is very actively pursued. Mountain biking, cross-country running, mountain climbing, bouldering, Sierra hiking, and photography are also actively pursued. For those who appreciate good photography, a visit to Galen Rowell's Mountain Light Gallery is highly recommended.

The Owens River meanders through the valley and is a magnet for fishermen and tubers. The dirt tracks that follow the river require a 4WD vehicle as there are high centers and some soft and/or wet spots that need to be negotiated. The soft light of pre-dawn light really makes it inviting but beware of the mosquitoes. My mosquito-net hat was covered on this morning.

Pre-dawn soon gives way to the light of day and, naturally, the highest landmarks, the Sierras, get illuminated first. The light, at this low angle, has to penetrate a lot of atmosphere which results in a very red-colored light. Before long, however, as the sun rises, the light will acquire its entire spectrum and take on the white light of the day.

The Buttermilks, which are a renowned location for bouldering, mountain biking, and photography, are just a few miles out of Bishop. Take Hwy 168 west out of Bishop then turn right on Buttermilk Road. This is a 2-lane-wide dirt washboard road, so take it slow. Your 2WD normal mode of transportation will be fine unless you decide to go up some of the hills or take some of the less-traveled side roads. Stay on the main road and you should have no difficulties.

You can also get a beautiful overview of this area if you continue west on 168 to Starlite Drive. Although you will see nothing at the turnoff, this road will take you to a small community. Drive straight through it and you will find yourself with a spectacular view of the Buttermilks and an opportunity to connect up with Buttermilk Road.

If you plan your visit carefully, you may even be able to see a moonset over the Sierras at dawn - truly a sight to remember.

As you continue up Hwy 168 still further you will gain altitude very quickly. In the winter, the road will be gated just outside the community of Aspendell but your view of the Sierras is still very worthwhile. In Fall, the Aspens there turn brilliant hues of yellow and orange. If you're able to continue on 168, the road will take you to either Lake Sabrina or North Lake. Both locations are ideal for fishermen and photographers.


Another Bishop-area location that is well-worth seeing is the Laws Railroad Museum. Only 4.5 miles north of Bishop off Hwy 6, this museum keeps the narrow-gauge history of the valley alive.

Manzanar


The Manzanar Relocation Camp lies at the foot of Mt. Williamson just north of Lone Pine, CA. Up to 10,000 people of Japanese descent, many US citizens, were interned here after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the act that caused the United States to enter World War 2.

One of the internees created this monument in the base cemetery during his internment. The inscription reads "Monument for the Pacification of Spirits".

The numerous small bits of glass, rock, and coins left on and around this monument are small tributes left by the visitors. It is hard not to feel that spirit when visiting this location.

Finally, a plaque at the entrance to the camp reads ...

In the early part of World War II, 110,000 persons of Japanese ancestry were interned in relocation centers by executive order no. 9066, issued on February 19, 1942.

Manzanar, the first of ten such concentration camps, was bounded by barbed wire and guard towers confining 10,000 persons, the majority being American citizens.

May the injustices and humiliation suffered here as a result of hysteria, racism and economic exploitation never emerge again.

Little of the original camp remains today though the spirit lives on. Foundations are identified for the buildings that once stood there, a guard tower has been reconstructed, and an original building has been returned to the base. The presentation at the visitor's center is very worthwhile and quite stirring. If you are lucky, you may even be able to talk to one of the internees, as I did, who returns each year and volunteers his services. Though I'm certain that his parents had a different opinion, from his perspective as a young child, his time spent at Manzanar was pleasant - "There were always children to play with and my parents were always available".


A particularly stark, yet beautiful area, may be found behind the internment center. There large boulder fields lay at the feet of Mt. Williamson, the second-highest peak in the Sierras. It is also the site of one of Ansel Adam's most famous shots, "Mt. Williamson, the Sierra Nevada, from Manzanar, California 1945". A passing storm somehow seems to suit it.

There are no facilities at Manzanar.

Lone Pine


Ah, the pranksters. Lone Pine lies at the south end of the Owens Valley. While a small town, population 1,655, it is indeed full of "Charm".

Lone Pine has a full range of services. I can certainly recommend the Dow Villa Motel in town or, within a mile or two to the south, a Comfort Inn and a Best Western. While there are some fast-food restaurants, the restaurant that I keep coming back to for good basic food is the Mt. Whitney Restaurant. There you can try to guess the identities of scores of movie stars whose pictures are hanging on the walls. For a bit more money, but superb food, try Seasons just across the street from the Mt. Whitney.

The big event every year is the Film Festival that is held in October over Columbus Day weekend. If you hurry, you can attend this year's festival.

When I think of Lone Pine, however, I think of it as the gateway to Mt. Whitney and the Alabama Hills. To others, it is the shooting location for countless movies and commercials. Both perceptions are accurate.


Mt. Whitney, at 14,495 feet, is the highest peak in the Lower 48 states and the most frequently-climbed peak in the Sierra Nevadas. The most popular route, the Whitney Portal, is a 10.7-mile trail which begins at the end of the end of the Whitney Portal Road, 13 miles west of Lone Pine. While most take 2 days for this round-trip hike, some hearty souls do it in one. Since the summer of 1996, everyone entering the Whitney Zone between May 22 and October 15 must obtain a permit. Permits for day users and backpackers entering from the east are issued only at the InterAgency Visitor Center, 1 mile south of Lone Pine. Even if you don't intend to hike the backcountry, a visit to the Visitor Center is worthwhile.
Though you may never have visited the Alabama Hills before, you may get almost a deja vu feeling on your first visit. That is because they have been featured in 100's of movies and 1000's of commercials filmed there. For instance, the 1939 movie Gunga Din starring Cary Grant, Victor McLaglen, Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., Joan Fontaine, Eduardo Ciannelli, and, in the title role, Sam Jaffe, was made entirely in these hills. For those who now have a puzzled look on their faces, a more recent example is the 2007 film, Iron Man. Here is an excellent tour guide for some of the better-known movies.

The "Hills" are made up of rough granite stones of all shapes that have been weather-worn over the millennia. They are very rough and can easily tear up your hands and knees. If you intend to do a bit of climbing during your explorations, I would suggest wearing a pair of leather gloves and some knee pads.

Points of Interest (see map):

Perhaps the best-known formation is one that was made famous by the photographer Galen Rowell, Mobius Arch. It is particularly attractive, well not when I'm posing perhaps, during sunrise when first light on Mt. Whitney or Lone Pine Peak may be seen through the arch.

Drive to the pullout shown at point B on the map then take a short path to the arch. The area to view the arch is quite small and it is very popular so if there are a number of other cars parked there, do not be surprised if you are not able to gain a viewpoint that you would like. If so, come back on another occasion.

An incredible overview of the Hills and the Sierras may be seen from this next location. At point C on the map, which is at the top of a steep hill, there is a small dirt road to the south. A 2WD vehicle can take this for a short distance to a camping area but beyond that the slickrock will require either a hike or a 4WD vehicle. Perhaps a 1/2 mile long, this track will take you to what seems to be the top of the world, a place that I have camped on numerous occasions.


If you're really lucky, you may have the opportunity to see a "Sierra Wave" light up with dawn's colors.


Another arch, which I have named Knight's Arch for its resemblance to that chess piece, may be found further east. A dirt road, which is initially accessible by 2WD, exits Movie Road at point D on the map. Within a couple of hundred yards there is a small pulloff and this arch may be seen to the west. A short hike through the sage makes for a very easy approach.

In fact, while standing at Knight's Arch look to the west. With a little care you can spot another arch, which I've dubbed Crab Arch, that is within easy walking distance.

Owens Valley is far more than the arid stretch of road that one must pass when heading for Mammoth Lakes. It is an area of true beauty if one only takes the time to pause and soak it in.

The Treasures of the Palouse

Traveling the back roads of the Palouse is great fun and a great part of the adventure and enjoyment that I find there. On one such drive, I chanced upon this scene. The Manning-Rye covered bridge, which spans the Palouse river. Though it was once used by the railroad, it was long ago purchased from them and is now part of a driveway. Although on private property and marked "No Trespassing", the best view is from the high vantage point of a public road. As far as timing, I've found that the best time to get this view is when the river is quite full in May. Later on in the summer the water levels drop to reveal large unattractive sand/rock bars. If you wish to find this bridge, take Green Hollow Road out of Colfax. After about 6 miles, take a left on Manning Road. You should see the bridge on your left after about 1/2 mile (see map).

By far the biggest man-made attractions of the region are its barns. Whether you're interested in well-maintained traditional barns, dilapidated barns, or round barns, this region is for you.

A unusual round barn may be found along the Old Pullman-Moscow Road (see map):


Another round barn may be found approximately 5 miles west of St. John on Hwy 23.

Many examples of dilapidated barns could be shown as it is not difficult to find them in the Palouse.

This one may be found along the highway between Pullman and Moscow, Idaho, if it is still standing.



While this one was only a couple of miles off of Hwy 26 on (as I recall) Helen Repp Road.



A regional treasure that is all-too-often overlooked is Palouse Falls and Palouse Falls State Park (see map). This magnificent 186-foot falls and the equally impressive canyon into which it flows, is located 17 miles outside Washtucna. The Falls gained notoriety recently when Tyler Bradt paddled his kayak over the falls. In setting this world record, he suffered only a sprained wrist and a broken paddle.



If you find yourself on the Endicott-St John Road, don't be surprised if you chance upon a recreation of an old Texaco service station complete with old cars and bullet holes. Just a Palouse resident's hobby and one which he is proud to show off.

Such treasures are not around every bend but it is just such finds that make the quest worthwhile.

The Seasons of the Palouse

The Palouse region of Washington state is a veritable feast for the eyes. The silt dunes, which characterize the Palouse Prairie, were formed during the ice ages when the ice dam holding back Lake Missoula repeatedly broke and reformed. The heart of the region is arguably Colfax though the fields extend for many miles in all directions (see map). The region primarily supports the growth of wheat, lentils, Canola, and Garbonzo beans. In fact, the town of Pullman holds a National Lentil Festival each year during harvest. In the Spring and early summer the bright greens and yellows of these crops and others cover the region with a patchwork quilt.

A favorite vantage point of this beauty is from atop Steptoe Butte, an island that juts out 1,000 feet above the silty loess of the Palouse hills. This landmark lies a few miles east of the town of Steptoe. The circuitous drive up its flanks is well worth it as from there one can see the patchwork fields for many miles around.

When one visits the Palouse in the Spring with the sky filled with puffy white clouds, you will never forget the sight. In early June 2007 I was treated to such a sight while traveling a back road. It's at times like these that one must just pause and soak in the bounty before us.

While the green fields of wheat are beautiful, so too are the golden wheat fields of late summer. Visit there the beginning of August and you're likely to see combines (harvesters) in the fields. I've found the people of the region to be extraordinarily open and friendly. On occasion, the farmers have even orchestrated the movements of the combines for me for a better view.

You might think that the beauty ends with the harvest but that need not be the case. Arise early and the stubble from the fields of freshly-harvested wheat show textures and patterns in the soft light that are quite compelling. The patterns of the harvest are unmistakable as they follow the contours of the land.

Winter is the only season that I have not visited the Palouse but I hope to remedy that this year. Many of the back roads are posted as closed between November 15 and March 15 each year (local residents excepted). A note on these back roads: 4-wheel drive is definitely not required. If you drive them with care, your daily transportation should serve your needs - I've even driven these back roads in a Honda Insight, a 2-seat hybrid.

Accommodations:
There is a nice Best Western motel in Colfax. I've stayed there on several occasions and found it satisfactory. Don't expect to find a good selection of restaurants in Colfax. Other than several fast food establishments that tend to close early, the Mexican restaurant in the heart of town is the place to go.

Approximately 16 miles south of Colfax on Hwy 195 is the college town of Pullman. Here you will find quite a number of motels and restaurants. I've only stayed there once and during that short visit did not find anything that I could recommend. If you plan to visit the region during the late Summer or Fall make sure and check the football schedule of Washington State University. If a home game will be played during your stay, the hotels / motels will be solidly booked in advance. Just do a little planning.

Then again, one can always find an out-of-the-way field and camp for the night.

Wilson Peak Sunrise

I thought that I'd start off by describing the area depicted in my banner.

In the Fall of 2007, I wanted to follow the changing colors of Fall from Montana's Glacier National Park to the mountains of northern New Mexico. While many of the areas were beautiful, the beauty of the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, and, in particular, the area around Telluride, stood out.

Telluride, which began as a turn-of-the-century (late 1800s) mining community, is now a world-renowned resort. Its annoyingly-slow speed limits give you plenty of opportunity to soak in the atmosphere. There is no lack of accommodations in the area but, as you would expect in a resort community, they are quite expensive. As it is also quite isolated, other than car- or tent-camping, there are few alternatives in the area. Complete information on dining, lodging, and festival events may be found here.

The setting of the town is magnificent as it sits at the base of Telluride Ski Mountain and is surrounded by 13,000 foot peaks. During Fall, the Aspens turn glorious shades of yellow and gold.

I approached the area from the north (see map) so my route took me south on Hwy 50 from Grand Junction to Montrose. From there I took Hwy 550 south to Ridgeway. From Ridgeway, there are few wrong directions as they are all beautiful. You can continue heading south to Ouray and Silverton or head west on Hwy 62 then east on Hwy 145 as I did. Hwy 145 winds up a valley and its spur will end at Telluride.

The drive on Hwy 145 up the valley presents you with many side roads to explore. These roads, which are passable with 2WD vehicles, will quickly take you up into the high country. Don't be surprised if scenes, such as the one that I've used in the banner, will open up before you. Although beautiful during midday, most views will improve with the light of sunrise or sunset.

On October 3rd, during one such afternoon exploration, I discovered the above scene which presents a dramatic view of 14,017 foot Wilson Peak. This spot, off of Silver Pick Road, looks out over Silver Pick Basin. As I wanted to see it at sunrise, I parked my vehicle for the night. That evening I was treated to a herd of deer grazing around the stand of Aspen that you see on the right. My hopes for the morning rested on a weather forecast that showed an approaching storm. Of course, that can create dramatic skies and beautiful sunrises or completely obscure the mountains and you in a snow storm - at this altitude a real possibility. I was lucky this time.

As I continued my journey that afternoon, I took Hwy 145 8.9 miles south of Telluride to the dirt road turnoff for Alta, an old gold mining camp. I was very surprised to see this plaque as I didn't realize the historic significance of the location.


It reads "The Alta Townsite was the center of mining activity in the Alta-Gold King area from 1877 to 1948. L.L. Nunn, Nicola Tesla and George Westinghouse worked at this site with the first industrial use of alternating current electricity. A long distance electric transmission line was completed from the Ames power plant on the San Miguel River below on June 21st 1891. John Wagner operated the Belmont-Wagner mill at this site from 1917 until 1948."

Here is the area of the Ames Power Plant referred to on the plaque.